Xi’an, China
In the heart of Sha’anxi province, the historical Chinese capital of Xi’an is widely considered to be the root of Chinese civilisation. Home to its first emperor and the seat of power for 13 Chinese dynasties, the sheer wealth of history in Xi’an is unparalleled anywhere else in the People’s Republic of China. Akin to a museum on steroids, sights range from splendid imperial tombs to elegant Buddhist pagodas and Chinese Islamic architecture at its finest, all set within a modern Chinese urban context. With a population of about eight million people, the city teems with traffic, bustling luxury shopping malls, and is also home to some of the country’s top universities. With millenniums of Chinese history on display, it sets the stage for a truly insightful and memorable visit that should ideally span at least two or three days to really get a feel for this cultural gem.
Xi’an is unique in that large parts of its Ming Dynasty city walls dating back to the 1370s have been preserved, despite China’s developmental rush to modernise. One of the world’s largest ancient military defensive systems still in existence, the complex features 14 kilometres of intact walls that are 12 metres high and surrounded by a moat right in the heart of the city. Walking or cycling along the top of the wall is a perfect way to get unparalleled views of the old city on one side, and a modern urban sprawl on the other.
Demarcating the geographical centre of the ancient capital, the Bell Tower (Zhong Lou – the largest and best preserved of its kind in China) and Drum Tower (Gu Lou) which loom protectively over the city are an essential pit stop. Mornings are an occasion to enjoy the booming tones of huge drums from within, which traditionally are used to signal the end of the day.
Just below the wall and the South Gate is the ancient cultural street of Shuyuanmen. This quaint area is one of a number of old neighbourhoods in Xi’an that are delightful to explore on foot. Wandering around, old houses with amazing stonework and doorways intermingle with lanes and market spaces, lined with stores selling all sorts of trinkets. Heirloom pieces and calligraphy supplies ranging from inks to inkpots, brushes to seals and exquisitely detailed calligraphic paintings take centre stage.
Another area for bargain-addicted shopaholics can be found in the mass of underground tunnels in Luo Ma Shi Street. Filled to the brim with a maze of stalls, selling everything from handbags to sneakers, sunglasses to jewellery, and every manner of cheap and cheerful trinkets, this part of town is sure to satisfy the most disinterested of shoppers.
Follow this healthy bout of shopping with irresistible street food. Sample skewers of highly spiced lamb; cold and sour Liang Ping noodles; exquisitely hand-pulled Biangbiang noodles; sweet potato fritters; ground meat sandwiches and Arab-influenced mutton soup with vegetables. To ensure the freshest of ingredients, do as the locals and head for the busiest stalls with the longest queues.
A must on any visitor’s itinerary is the Muslim Quarter (Hui Min Street). Famed as the eastern end of the infamous Silk Road trading route, many merchants and their descendants have settled here. The area is a hive of activity covering several blocks, with a vibrant 60,000-strong Muslim community and the city’s Hui minority. Located deep within the labyrinth of streets, you will find the Great Mosque of Xi’an, one of the oldest, largest and best preserved in China. Built during the Tang Dynasty in the eighth century, its walls offer sanctuary from the hustle and bustle outside.
As night falls, lantern-filled streets shining their light on numerous candy stalls are a highlight of the area. Savour the freshly hammered flat taffy, pulled and moulded into candies containing nuts and seasonings.
The Muslim Quarter is known for some of the best versions of Xi’an’s most popular dish, Hot Pot. The dish involves picking meats, vegetables and broth to suit your taste. Enjoy a truly memorable experience whilst sitting outdoors, sipping ice-cold beers or hot tea around a bubbling hot pot, and people-watching to your heart’s content at one of the most iconic parts of the city.
Start a fresh day with a visit to one of the most recognisable symbols of Xi’an. Built in the seventh century, the Buddhist Great Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Ta) received World Heritage status in 2014. Situated just south of the city centre, stone-carved pavilions surround the pagoda and depict the journeys of the scholar Xuanzang, a seventh-century Buddhist monk. His far-flung travels in search of wisdom and sacred writings always brought him back to the pagoda, built originally to store his collection of Buddhist sutras and scriptures.
Nearby and considered amongst the best history museums in China, the Sha’anxi History Museum is free for all. Tickets are limited to prevent over-crowding, so make sure you show up early so as not to miss out. The museum spans an area of 55,600 square metres and is home to a collection of 370,000 relics from assorted dynasties – from bronze chariots, jade seals, pottery, gold and silver, to tomb murals and terracotta warriors.
No trip to Xi’an is complete without a visit to the world famous Terracotta Army of the late First Emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang. Discovered in 1974, the site is, without question, an intriguing and insightful place to visit. Records show that it took a labour force of 700,000 people and 38 years to complete what is widely considered the largest tomb in the world! The necropolis constructed for the Emperor spans an area of nearly 100 square kilometres, equivalent to approximately 30,000 football fields. Much of the area still lies beneath layers of earth and debris that have built up over time.
Approximately a quarter of the army has been excavated to date on three main sites. The first features thousands of life-sized clay warriors lined up in rows, whilst the second has a smaller group which includes chariots and horses. The chariots were built out of solid bronze, weighing in at over a ton each. The third pit allows you to get up close and personal with individual warriors in glass cases. Each section of warriors was in the past lacquered and painted with their respective colours to represent infantrymen, cavalrymen, archers and charioteers. Details such as weapons, hairstyles and clothing were integral to the varying authority connected to each individual.